Sumba
July 2025
Just a one-hour flight east of Bali, the island feels like stepping back in time, to a version of Bali from the 1990s, before boutique beach clubs and crowded streets. Life moves at a slower pace here, where empty roads wind through rolling hills, traditional villages remain the heart of local communities, and nature still takes centre stage.
Reaching Sumba is surprisingly easy, with several daily flights from Bali's Ngurah Rai International Airport to Tambolaka or Waingapu. We flew with Nam Air, one of the most popular airlines serving the route. In little more than an hour, Bali's bustling energy gives way to a rugged island where wild horses roam the savannah, waterfalls tumble into turquoise pools, and spectacular sunsets leave you in awe.
Ratenggaro Village, Weekuri Lagoon & Mandorak Beach
Ratenggaro Village is one of Sumba's best-preserved traditional villages. Towering thatched houses rose dramatically into the sky, their steep roofs reflecting centuries of Marapu culture and craftsmanship. Walking through the village felt like stepping into another era, where life continues much as it has for generations. One of the highlights was the opportunity to dress in traditional Sumbanese attire, beautifully handwoven with the island's iconic ikat textiles. Wearing the vibrant garments while learning about the customs, ancestral beliefs, and daily life of the local community made the experience far more meaningful than simply sightseeing. It was a wonderful introduction to Sumba's rich cultural heritage.
From history, we moved into nature's masterpiece at Weekuri Lagoon. Hidden behind limestone cliffs, the lagoon shimmered in every shade of blue imaginable. Fed by seawater filtering through underground channels rather than freshwater springs, the calm, crystal-clear pool was impossibly inviting. Floating here, surrounded by rugged limestone cliffs and gentle sea breezes, was the perfect way to ease into the rhythm of island life.
As evening approached, we arrived at Mandorak Beach, a tiny cove tucked between dramatic limestone cliffs. Unlike the wide beaches found elsewhere, Mandorak feels intimate and secluded. Powerful waves from the Indian Ocean crashed against the rocky headlands while the sheltered cove remained calm, with soft white sand beneath our feet. It was a spectacular introduction to Sumba's rugged coastline and a reminder of how dramatically diverse the island's landscapes can be—all within a single day.
Mandorak Beach
Weekacura, Praijing Village & Wairinding Hills
We visited Weekacura, where tranquil waterways wind through lush rice fields, creating a landscape that almost resembles floating gardens. The slow pace of life here encouraged us to pause, appreciate the scenery, and simply enjoy the quiet.
Next came Praijing Village, another remarkable traditional settlement. The village sits gracefully on a hillside overlooking endless green valleys, with beautifully preserved ancestral homes standing proudly against the landscape. Every wooden carving, every stone tomb, and every roof tells a story of the island's enduring traditions.
As the afternoon light softened, we drove to Wairinding Hills, perhaps Sumba's most photographed landscape. Endless rolling hills stretched toward the horizon like gentle ocean waves frozen in time. Depending on the season, the hills transform from lush emerald green to golden grasslands. Watching the sunlight move across the landscape was mesmerising, and it quickly became one of our favourite moments of the trip.
Purukambera Savannah, Tanggedu Waterfall & Tenau Hills
The morning began in Purukambera Savannah, where wide open grasslands stretched as far as the eye could see. Wild horses grazed freely against the backdrop of distant hills, creating scenes that felt more like East Africa than Indonesia. It was peaceful, windswept, and wonderfully wild.
After the heat of the savannah, Tanggedu Waterfall provided the perfect escape. The adventure began with a short motorbike ride through rural villages and dusty tracks, adding an extra sense of excitement before we even reached the trailhead. the falls required a scenic but hard walk through rocky terrain and river crossings, making the destination feel even more rewarding. Cascading into turquoise pools framed by sculpted rock formations, Tanggedu felt like a hidden oasis carved by nature over thousands of years.
By late afternoon, we arrived at Tenau Hills, where endless waves of grass-covered ridges rolled across the landscape. Standing there, surrounded by nothing but open skies and gentle winds, it felt like we had stumbled onto the set of an epic film. It's easy to understand why couples from across Indonesia choose Tenau Hills for their pre-wedding and destination wedding photoshoots. The scenery is effortlessly romantic, dramatic, and beautifully wild. Even if you're not there for wedding photos, it's the kind of place that makes you want to linger until the last light disappears over the horizon.
Waimarang Waterfall & Walakiri Beach
Waimarang Waterfall. Hidden deep within the forest, its emerald pool was surrounded by towering limestone walls and lush tropical vegetation. The water was incredibly clear and refreshingly cool—a perfect escape after the short jungle trek ( still a trek to the waterfall, as you have to go down into a valley and make the journey up later)
Our final destination was Walakiri Beach, famous for its iconic mangrove trees that appear to dance across the shoreline during sunset. As the tide receded, reflections formed a natural mirror beneath the twisted branches. Watching the sky turn shades of orange, pink, and purple while silhouettes stretched across the wet sand created one of the most magical sunsets we've ever witnessed.
Field Notes:
A laid-back atmosphere means you will be having your meals at many roadside stalls, serving simple meals. However, only on our last day did we manage to find this restaurant serving amazing sumba cuisine https://makandulu.or.id/
Nam Air ( return tix) : 138 USD
Purukambera Savannah> check with your guide about vegetation conditions. Unfortunately for us, the savannah was destroyed a few months ago by a wildfire
Hire a guide/driver for the duration of your trip. 5 days ( inclusive of driver, guide, meals, and 3-star accommodation, 250USD pp)
There are 5-star beach resorts available on the island, depending on your preference ( NHI Sumba, Cap Karoso)> as Sumba is an up-and-coming destination, many resorts were under development while we were there
Guide Details: @Ren_nagaa288 ( look him up on ig; however, he does not speak much English) > He provides his own transport and photography/drone services, all included in the 250 USD!
Tipping: 10 USD per day
